Hotel Sandakan

Block 83, 4th Ave

Town Centre

Sandakan 90000

Sabah

Malaysia

Tel: +60 89 221122

Fax: +60 89 221100

Sandakan and the Death Marches, 1942-1945

In May 1945, clad only in ragged loin-cloths, over 500 skeletal creatures, barely recognisable as human beings, struggle to their feet at the Sandakan POW Compound, on Sabah's north-east coast. Three long years in captivity, half of them on starvation rations and with little or no medical attention, had taken their toll. The grimy, wasted bodies of these once fit and strapping Australian and British servicemen were covered in sores and scabies, their filthy hair and beards matted and lice-infested. Many were suffering from tropical ulcers, some so large that shin bones were clearly visible. Others, bloated from beriberi, lumbered along on sausage-like legs. They were bound for Ranau, a small village on the flanks of Mt Kinabalu, South East Asia's highest peak, situated 250 kilometres away to the west, in the rugged Borneo jungle interior.

Why were the POWs in Sandakan?

All were members of a 2700-strong Allied contingent transferred to Sandakan by the Japanese in 1942-43, following Singapore's fall. Their task was to construct a military airfield, using not much more than their bare hands. For the first twelve months or so, conditions at Sandakan were tolerable. However, in mid 1943 the Japanese discovered that the POWs not only had a radio but were in league with a local resistance organisation. The kempei-tai, or secret police, swooped. Arrests and transfers followed. Discipline at Sandakan was tightened considerably and life became much more difficult for the remaining 2,434 prisoners.

Why were they marching to Ranau?

As the war ground on, conditions deteriorated. In late January 1945 the Japanese decided to move 455 of the fittest prisoners to Jesselton (Kota Kinabalu) to act as coolie labourers - only to halt them at Ranau, owing to Allied air activity on the west coast. At the end of May, there was a second march from Sandakan and in mid-June a third, comprised of only 75 men. As both sea and air were under the complete control of the Allies, a track had been cut through the mountains, linking existing bridle-trails. Unaware that it was to be used by POWs, the local headmen given the task of creating this track had deliberately routed it away from any habitation, across the most inhospitable and difficult terrain possible. There was no medical assistance and little food. Anyone who could not keep up was ‘disposed of'. Despite this, about half the prisoners completed the march, only to die at Ranau from illness, malnutrition and ill-treatment by their captors. Two Australians managed to escape in the early stages of the second march with the help of villagers, and four more successfully escaped from Ranau into the jungle, where they were cared for by local people.

What happened to the rest of Sandakan's prisoners?

Back at Sandakan, 200 prisoners unable undertake the second and third marches also died, bringing the death toll there to about 1400. Of the 1000-odd prisoners who left on the death marches, about half died in the attempt. The rest died at their destination. The story of Sandakan and the death marches is one of the most tragic of World War Two. It is also one of the most heroic. Despite appalling conditions, the prisoners never gave up. Their heroism, their determination and their indomitable spirit are testimony to the strength of the human spirit and an inspiration to all. Of the 2434 prisoners incarcerated at Sandakan, 1787 were Australian. The remaining 641 were British. The six Australians who escaped were the sole survivors.

Re-tracing the Death March Track

The track cut for the death marches soon became completely overgrown and for sixty years defied all efforts to locate it. However, in August 2005, the path taken by the prisoners of war was finally identified. After sixty years, you too can now walk in the footsteps of the Death March heroes.

Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary, Sandakan Memorial Park, Death March Track - Bauto to Telupid.  This morning after breakfast we visit Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary, Sandakan War Memorial Park, and then proceed to Bauto for the start of our walk along the Sandakan Death March Track. The walk is in the uphill jungle and then downhill.

The walk will take about 5 hours depending on the level of fitness. A packed lunch is provided. At the end of the days walk we transfer to Telupid to stay overnight in the resthouse. (B,L,D) 

Death March Track - Maliau to Wonod.   We transfer to Maliau start point of the Death March Track. The walk is in the open track with a  few river crossings. Then we walk the villages track and the walk will last for 6 to 7 hours ending at Wonod village. We then transfer back to resthouse for our overnight. (B,L,D)

Death March Track - Nabutan to Nalapak, Muruk Village.  Today we transfer to Nabutan and walk the Death March Track to Nalapak. Lunch will be in a Tea House before we continue walking to Muruk Village. Today the walk will last for 7 hours and take us through many farms - a very cultural experience. We again stay at the  longhouse. (B,L,D)

If you have extra time, we can book accommodation for you in Kota Kinabalu, and you can explore the city at your leisure.

Since 1946, Sabah's seat of government has been based at Kota Kinabalu, or KK as it's universally known. Although not pretty architecturally, it's got a unique buzz to it and is the liveliest city in Malaysia after Kuala Lumpur, with a plethora of markets, cafés and bars.

Downtown KK was almost obliterated by World War II bombs, and only in the North Eastern corner of the city centre - an area known as KK Lama, or old KK - are there even the faintest remains of its colonial past. Jalan Gaya in particular is an attractive street lined with colourful and popular Chinese ‘kedai kopis’ (local coffee shops). The most diverting of the waterfront markets is the Filipino Market, opposite blocks K and M of the Sinsuran Complex, which sells Sabahan ethnic wares as well as Filipino baskets, shells and trinkets. Next door is the dark and labyrinthine general market and, behind that, the manic waterfront fish market.

KK's most rewarding cultural experience, though, is the Sabah State Museum (Mon-Thurs 10am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9am-6pm; free), twenty minutes' walk west of the town centre along Jalan Tunkul Abdul Rahman (or take a bus from opposite the GPO), and housed in Murut- and Rungus-style longhouses. Its highlight is the ethnographic collection, which includes human skulls from Sabah's headhunting days, and totems. Photographs trace the development of Kota Kinabalu, and there's also a natural history section, an archeology gallery and an Islamic Civilization Gallery. Fronting the museum is an Ethnobotanic Garden (daily 6am-6pm), whose huge range of tropical plants is best experienced on one of the free-guided tours (9am & 2pm except Friday). Exquisitely crafted, traditional houses representing all Sabah's major tribes border the garden, in the Kampung Warisan.

Another option if you have another free day is a visit to Gaya Island.

Take a 30-minute boat ride from Kota Kinabalu to Gaya Island. The island is covered with undisturbed lowland dipterocarp rainforest with pockets of mangrove forest and beach flora along the coast. Take a 1½-hour walk on one of the trails that lead through coastal vegetation. Mudskippers can be seen from the boardwalk that runs through the mangrove forest. Takwe lunch at Sapi Island, an island lying adjacent to the South-Western tip of Gaya Island. In the afternoon there is time for swimming or snorkelling in the crystal clear waters before your return to Kota Kinabalu.

Please be aware that arrival times and the itinerary may change due to unforeseen delays or events such as festivals and public holidays. However, we shall endeavour to ensure all sites are visited and that your tour runs as smoothly as possible.

Be flexible, you will enjoy your tour much more. Kumuka makes a point of visiting the indigenous populations of each country you visit, in order to give a true reflection of the country; please treat the local people and their customs with respect.

This itinerary will be followed as closely as possible. However there may be times when it is necessary to change the route according to local conditions. There will be times travelling long hours as there will be days where we have to cover great distances. Weather patterns can change dramatically - high altitudes tend to be a lot cooler.

You are free not to participate in any of the included excursions. However, please note that there will be no refund for any excursions not taken.

Lastly, your tour leader is always conscious of everybody's views, but sometimes he/she will have to make an unpopular decision and your understanding will be appreciated in these circumstances.

Travel insurance is compulsory for all tours. All clients MUST be insured to cover personal accident, medical expenses, cancellation, curtailment, repatriation, etc. Also, be aware that many activities such as trekking, bungy jumping or white water rafting may not be covered on your insurance policy. If you plan on doing any of these activities please purchase additional insurance. We recommend that you have a photocopy of this document, which you keep separate from the original. If you have not already arranged your own travel insurance then Kumuka can do this for you. Please visit http://www.kumuka.com/Travel-Insurance.aspx  for more details or contact your nearest Kumuka office.

Please Note: You will not be permitted to join a Kumuka Tour without travel insurance.

It is important that you obtain the appropriate visas before you embark on your Asia trip. Country entry regulations change daily, www.kumuka.com  provides you with visa information. Please consult your relevant embassy for all details such as opening hours or costs. Certain visas cannot be obtained once you have started your tour, and during the peak summer months it can take longer than normal to get visas, please allow extra time to do this.

EACH CLIENT IS SOLELY RESPONSIBLE FOR OBTAINING ALL NECESSARY VISAS BEFORE JOINING A TOUR.

Kumuka does not accept responsibility for changes in regulations or requirements for visas. The information provided is given in good faith.

Vaccinations:

No vaccinations are compulsory in Asia, but we do recommend you are covered for *diphtheria & TB, hepatitis A, *hepatitis B, *malaria, typhoid, polio and tetanus.

NB* A Yellow fever certificate is required if arriving from infected areas. Vaccination requirements are subject to change and should be confirmed before departure.

You may need additional inoculations so please contact your G.P or a travel medical centre for further information. Please consult your doctor for up-to-date information and prescriptions for vaccinations, anti-malarial requirements and any reasonably foreseeable illnesses whilst travelling in Asia.

We also recommend:

- A dental check-up prior to travelling.
- That you know your blood group in case of emergency.
- That if you have any pre-existing medical conditions which might affect you on tour, you make these known to your tour leader and your agent/Kumuka at the time of your booking.

You can also visit www.kumuka.com for further details.

Medical Supplies:

We advise that all passengers bring along their own personal first aid kit. Below is a list of some recommended items:

Band Aids/Bandages, Laxatives, Upset stomach remedy, Anti-diarrhoea remedy, Panadol/Aspirin, Rehydration remedy, Antiseptic cream/powder, Sterile dressing, Any relevant course of medication such as contraceptive pills.

A complete Travellers Medical Pack can be purchased for approximately US$25 at most Vaccination Centres, Chemists and outdoor travel shops.

• Do not take unnecessary valuables with you.
• A money belt, or something similar, worn close to your body is the best way to carry passports, airline tickets and money.
• DO NOT leave any valuables in ANY hotel room in Asia, please use SAFETY DEPOSIT BOXES. Items are left at the individuals’ risk.
• Pickpockets operate everywhere, particularly in tourist areas and in crowded markets; you must always exercise care.
• Be aware that anything left lying around will also be liable to theft.

We suggest passengers budget for between US$15-30 per day for personal expenses, souvenirs, evenings out, alcoholic drinks etc. Be aware that some countries are more expensive than others and that if you are travelling through several your expenses will vary enormously. Similarly there will be some days when you spend nothing at all and others when you exceed your budget.

For security you are advised to carry most of your money in Traveller’s cheques - small denominations are preferable.

It is often a good idea to have a small amount of the currency of the country you are visiting prior to arrival. This will cover you for any initial expenses at or from the airport.

Banks are generally open Monday to Friday and some are open on Saturday morning. In the main cities travellers’ cheques can be exchanged at banks and some exchange bureaux, but this can be very difficult in small towns.

Some Hotels will also change money.

How much should I take?

· Please bring lightweight walking boots and sandals or trainers, and a day sac. Pack essentially for hot conditions: days are hot and humid. Lightweight rain gear is essential at all times.

· Because of limited luggage space on transport, we must limit each passenger to ONE main frameless backpack and one day bag. Your main bag must not weigh more than 15 kg’s.

· A frameless or internally framed backpack is the best way to carry your belongings since it is easy to lift on and off vehicles.

· A small daypack is essential for keeping general items (e.g. camera, books, wallets etc.) at hand when your main pack is out of reach and when you are trekking. It is also handy for day trips and excursions.

We also recommend that you keep your passport, credit cards, Travellers Cheques etc. on you at all times, preferably in a money belt worn under your clothes.

Recommended List of What to Take for Death March Trek:

1. Comfortable walking shoes/boots

2. Spare pair of light sneakers for river crossings

3. Loose and comfortable clothing

4. Personal toiletries e.g. shampoo, soap, toothpaste etc.

5. Insect repellent

6. Sunscreen

7. Plastic bags to keep camera dry in case of rain

7. Water bottle (drinking water is provided)

8.Torch lights with extra bulbs and batteries

9. Small day pack for trekking

10. Waterproof jacket

11. Shady hat

12. Camera & film

13. High Energy Trail Food

Note: Things required during the trek should be carried in a small knapsack

TRAVEL TIP: You might be tempted to buy a few souvenirs here and there, so leave a little room for those extra purchases!!

Please remember, we are guests in the countries through which we travel and we may sometimes inadvertently cause offence by taking photographs without first asking permission.

It is absolutely forbidden by law to take photos at any borders, as they are all active military installation

We have put a lot of thought and effort into locating the most appropriate type of accommodation for each tour. It will always be clean, comfortable and of a high standard. The type of accommodation on this tour is quite varied - ranging from hotels, to cabins, to jungle lodges and dormitory style accommodation with more basic facilities.

If you wish to spend a few additional days in your start city before the departure of your tour, then we can arrange accommodation for you. If you would like to book accommodation to stay additional nights after the tour ends, we will be more than happy to arrange this for you as well. All our accommodation is carefully chosen, conveniently located, clean and comfortable.

In most of the hotels in Asia you may be required to deposit your passport at Reception. This is a perfectly normal practice and nothing to be concerned about. Just make sure that you retrieve it when you check out of the hotel.

Under no circumstances are any illegal drugs allowed on any part of the trip. Anyone discovered in possession of any such drugs, will be asked to leave the tour immediately without question or refund.

Tour Questionnaire - We would like to hear about your experiences on tour. One week after your tour ends you will automatically receive a feedback questionnaire via email. If we do not have your email address you can still complete a questionnaire by visiting www.kumuka.com/feedback

Email - If you have any specific comments about your tour then please write to us by email to operations@kumuka.com